|
|
| |
Dog
Training
Serving Bergen , Morris , Passaic , and Essex Counties NJ , R
ockland , Westchester ,
and Orange Counties NY
info@dpdogtraining.com |
| |
WELCOME
TO DPDOGTRAINING.COM |
|
Articles
| |
|
LIST OF ARTICLES:
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
WILL
YOU BE A RESPONSIBLE OWNER?
By Frank D'Andrea |
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
COMMITMENT:
AN AGGREEMENT OR PLEDGE TO DO SOMETHING IN THE
FUTURE.
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
Most of
the time, a decision to get a dog is by choice. Whether
it's a new pup or a rescue. Owning a dog is much
more than feeding, watering and letting out the back
door. Dogs are highly intelligent animals and need
both physical and mental stimulation on a daily basis.
It's up to the owner to provide them with this. Having
a well mannered, trained dog takes commitment. It
is achieved by dedication, effort and love. The rewards
the dog will give you in return are wonderful! So,
you think you want to be a dog owner? Be fair to
yourself and the dog, the kennels are full of unwanted
dogs already, most of them are there because of broken
commitments. Be more than an owner. Be a leader,
protector, and provider. Don't let him or her down!
Here are some responsibilities all future dog owners, and
a reminder for all present dog owners should heed before
making a commitment:
1- Good quality food
and water
2- Daily exercise
(On-Lead walking) and training sessions
3- Rules to live
by
4- Spay or neutering
5- Safety: keeping corralled, leashed. Supervision, outside
housing
6- Cleaning up after the dog, private or public
7- Neighbor friendly: barking, howling, crying etc.
8- Licensing
9- Health: annual checkups, attention to injury and sickness
10- Love and attention
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
I like to put toys in three categories. The first are the supervised toys. These include all toys that can be chewed up, torn and swallowed. Included would be plush stuffed animals with or without squeekies, rawhides (I only like for a teething tool) light rubber, leather. These toys should only be allowed with your supervision. They need to be inspected often and thrown away when the risk gets to great.
The second category is the unsupervised toys. These toys can be safely left with your pup or dog for lengths of time. Included would be Kongs, Nylabones. These toys can be left in the dog's crate with peace of mind. Of course all toys need to be size and hardness appropriate, as well as inspected for wear on a regular basis.
The third categories are toys not for dogs. This is simple; anything that is not designed for dogs, like shoes, wood, tires, etc. You be surprised what people give their dogs to play with! These, "toys" of course should be avoided altogether.
Below is a list of some toys I use and recommend.
| Kong Dog Toy |
Nylabone |
| Air Kong Dumbbell |
Kong Bounzer Dog Toy |
| Air Kong Sticks with
Rope |
Kong Balls |
| |
| Pet
Tennis Ball Dog Toy Exercisers: (NOTE:
NON-DOG TENNIS BALLS ARE MADE WITH GLUE NOT
NECESSARILY GOOD FOR DOGS). |
FIND THEM ALL HERE
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
TO
TRAIN OR NOT TO TRAIN: |
| |
|
|
| |
|
Let's face it, if you own a dog, it's your obligation to care for it for its whole life. The obvious details include feeding, watering, letting out. If the dog is a little lucky it'll get leash walks, grooming, and love. If it's real fortunate, it'll get trained!
We all live by rules in society, which is what keeps us civil. Well, dogs need rules to live by as
well. Outside rules as well as inside rules. Without rules, a dog can develop behavior problems that it shouldn't be blamed for. I mean, if you don't establish rules, how will a dog know what's right and what's wrong? Little dogs are no exception. Don't let their size or "cuteness" deceive you! They still think like dogs and act like dogs. THEY ARE DOGS!
As humans, we tend to put human emotions and qualities in our dogs, treat them like our
children. Well, I love my dog and dogs in general as much or more than the next person. But, I still treat her like a dog! That doesn't mean my dog isn't treated well. I bet I can count on one hand how many times I didn't leash walk my dog in the fifteen years or so I had her! I feed her quality "human grade" dog food, she has appropriate toys, she is groomed, she goes to the vet annually (more if necessary), and most importantly, she is TRAINED! Because my dog knows right from wrong, she doesn't jump on people, annoy guests, stops barking when I command, certainly is housebroken, comes when I call her even when off-leash. Simply put an enjoyment for me to come home to everyday.
Don't under estimate the intelligence of dogs; focus that intelligence through basic obedience training. It's the kindest thing you can do for your dog; trust me!
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
TYPES OF OBEDIENCE TRAINING: |
| |
|
|
| |
|
There are a few choices you can choose from when getting obedience training. I will describe and give my opinion of each of the programs.
The most popular program is the group training class. This is where you bring your dog to a facility (sometimes a parking lot!) with a trainer and usually anywhere from six to twelve dogs. The problem with group training can be large classes and too many distractions. If the classes stay relatively small, maybe six dogs, and the instructor is good with people as well as dogs, obedience can be accomplished. Keeping the dogs focused is very important. This is not socialization time!
Another type of training is the drop-off training. This is where you drop off your dog at the trainers' facility for a period of time for the dog to be trained (average two weeks for obedience.) The problem with this type of training is that the owner does not get trained! Unless there is a follow up program where the owner can learn the techniques, it's possible to undo everything the dog learned. Or worse, confuse the dog to a point of avoidance every time he's on a leash.
The most effective method of obedience training is personal, one-on-one training, where the trainer comes to your house to train the dog, you, and your family! He also can show you how to correct any behavioral issues the dog was let to develop in the home as well. Instruction, not only on training, but also on the topic of behavior can be discussed to better give you an understanding of how the dog thinks and learns.
Remember the stages of training.
1- The learning phase
2- The correction phase
3- The proofing (distraction)
phase more on the phases of training >>
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
DOGS ARE PACK ANIMALS: |
| |
|
|
| |
|
I would like to talk about pack, pack drive, and ranking within a pack. Dogs are pack animals, just like wolves are. If you ever watched a program on wolves, you will immediately recognize the pack behavior they display. The alpha pair are the two wolves that hold the highest rank and maintain rank among the rest of the pack mates. They submit to no one, and whom other pack mates defer. They eat first, drink first, etc.
Well guess what, dogs are the same way, And you and your family are the pack! Some dogs have stronger pack drives than others, but most all has some pack drive. Pack drive is the instinct in the dog to be with their pack mates.
Ranking in the pack is where we as dog owners need to pay attention. I compare it to a totem pole. You are either above or below the dog. There is no "even." Well, when you are seen as a higher rank, the dog will mind you. It's when you are seen as lower in rank, the dog develops the behavior problems we all see today: growling at the food bowl, barking for attention, pawing or nosing you for affection, excessive barking, stealing food. Need I go on? The way a dog grows in rank is when you let them sleep on the bed Lay on the furniture. Let them burst out the door Let them lead when coming in the door, constantly going to the dog to pet it, feeding it before you, or giving it table scraps from your hand Patrolling the back yard un-leashed.
We grossly underestimate the pack drive of dogs, we spoil them, we don't discipline them, and we give in to them. Then we wonder why the dog barks (or bites) at all our visitors and every passer-by. This can all be avoided by making your dog earn everything in life. Make them sit (or down) before meals, before going out or in, or before affection. Obedience training is the best way to keep rank in pack. I'll let you and your spouse battle out whom number one and two is, but the dog needs to be below every family (pack) member! To quote behaviorist Ceser Millan, dogs need exercise, discipline, and affection.. In that order. Respect dogs for what they are - dogs!
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
DOG PARKS: |
| |
|
|
| |
|
So many of the dog owners that email me for help get so disappointed when I suggest they don't take their pups to dog parks. I don't even recommend taking adult dogs there either. When I talk about dog parks, or dog runs, I mean off-leash.
The reasons for my feelings on dog parks are simple. Dogs are pack animals, and when you have more than two dogs together, you have a dog pack. As I stated in my article on pack drive and rank, we underestimate the pack drive of dogs. When these dogs are running together, they are establishing rank. Lots of time the dogs will work out their rank issues, but other times they will fight. If I'm the leader of my pack (my dogs) I am not going to let my dog settle ranking issues with other dogs, whether they are part of my pack or not. For every person who tells me they never experienced a fight in a dog park, I bet there are five who have.
Puppies who experience a bite, pin or dominance from an adult dog will be affected for life! It can and will be dog aggressive forever. I wouldn't let my pup socialize with any strange adults. The Pup should only have positive experiences. By bonding with you and trusting you as a true leader, your dog will grow with confidence.
Do your pup a favor, keep them away from strange adults, and keep your adult on a leash when around other dogs Dogfights happen in a flash, and breaking up a fight between dogs unscathed isn't that easy. Prevention is the best medicine!
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
THE "EVIL" CRATE: |
| |
|
|
| |
|
I guess I need to write an article on crates and crate
training. I'll never be able to convince everyone about the benefits of the
crate, but at least they can read the facts.
Every aspect of raising a pup can be simplified tenfold by using a
crate. Housebreaking, being the foremost. Unless a pup was allowed to make
mistakes in a crate, (which can happen when it is purchased from pet stores)
they usually will not mess the crate up. Pet store workers either don't have
the time, the dedication or don't care that dogs need to relieve themselves
from time to time. Dogs, being creatures of habit can continue this when
brought home. The other reason dogs dirty the crates (besides a medical
condition) is because they can't hold themselves. Pups don't have the
control once the brain tells them they have to go!
The crates' primary use is for the unsupervised dog. Nobody wants
to see a dog in a crate for 12 straight hours, but that's the situation the
dog owners made for themselves knowing they work all day with no one home.
That being the situation, the crate will keep the dog safe. I often hear the
word "cruel" when talking about the crate. Well, I always say, why don't you
ask the dog what cruel is. Is cruel putting a dog in a safe "den" or is
cruel giving a dog free run of a home where he can display bad behaviors for
you to constantly scold him (which by the way does nothing for teaching the
dog). The poor dog winds up walking with his head down every time the owners
come home regardless of whether or not he has done something wrong. Equally
as bad is giving the dog the chance to ingest something that will make him
sick or die.
A crate does not cause separation anxiety. Dogs are pack animals,
they always want to be with their pack so all dogs will be anxious about
being alone! We must help them deal with it.
Rescuing the barking dog. Too much hyper-activity in the house,
only to be ended by putting the dog away when it has gotten out of hand.
Never letting the dog deal with being alone hurts the dog dealing with
separation.
Keep playtime outside as much as possible. Put the dog in and out
of the crate several times a day for different lengths of time. Feed the dog
in the crate. Don't ever give in to a dog that cries in the crate. It will
stop. If you have a young pup, you may have to get up at night to take it
out, it may not be able to hold itself. If you do, go through your praise
routine after the pup does his thing outside, then put him back in and go
back to bed.
Always take off collars when in the crate. Put only toys that the
dog cannot tear and swallow. A special toy only for the crate like a Kong
with a hole to put a treat in can keep the dog occupied longer. A good
training or exercise session to relieve some energy and stress is a great
idea before you put him in for a long period. Consider hiring a dog walker
or sitter if you harbor guilt.
Separate your emotions and trust me; the crate is by far the right
thing to do. Remember that you took a dog in knowing that no one would be
home to care for it during the day, don't compound things by setting it up
for failure every day.
The dog can certainly be weaned out of the crate during the day
when he is entitled, and you will know when.
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
PHASES OF TRAINING: |
| |
|
|
| |
|
By now you must have discovered the many different opinions on training dogs. From the "old world" trainers that learned the "rock 'em sock 'em" way, where dogs worked out of fear, to the completely "positive" trainers where the dog never receives discipline. Some clicker trainers usually stop short of discipline. You may hear from some that training with food will only be effective if you have food, or the dog loses focus on the training and focuses only on the food. Well, it can be true if you never continue the training into the correction phase.
Where on this planet is there not a balance; "on", "off" "yes", "no" "black", "white" etc. Well, good complete dog training is a balance of praise and discipline. PRAISE IS SO IMPORTANT! We all are quick to discipline our dogs, but we are very short on praising the dogs when they do the right thing. ALWAYS end a negative (correction) with a positive (praise). This shows the dog the right from wrong and keeps his spirit and confidence in you, high.
The three phases of training, as agreed by the top trainers of the world include the learning phase, the correction phase, and the proofing or distraction phase. When each of these phases are covered in training dogs, you will better communicate with the dog, thus giving them clear understanding of what we are expecting of them.
The Learning Phase
During the learning phase, dogs learn behaviors using only positive motivation and techniques. Your voice, treats, toys, and physical praise are effective tools when teaching dogs particular behaviors in the learning phase. Puppies fewer than five months old should only be trained positively. No corrections or stressful behaviors like long stays or "heel" should be taught at this time. When you are convinced the dog has learned and proved they know the behavior 110%, which should be practiced every day until five months of age, are they ready for the next phase of training.
The Correction Phase
Corrections include your voice, body language, or leash "pops". In fact, your voice can be you best tool! At about five months of age, the dogs are now old enough to handle corrections. The food lures are phased out but the positive motivation of the training remains an important part in the correction phase.
When the dogs are displaying the correct behavior you must praise them lavishly. When they are not minding you (and they know the command 110%) you correct the dog with a firm "no" or with a simultaneous leash "pop", followed by praise again at the right moment, thus ending a negative with a positive. Timing is crucial. If you train your dog every day, you will soon notice your corrections getting used less and less. Your praise should never diminish. When the dogs are performing the commands 110% they are ready for the next phase of training.
The Proofing Phase
When dogs are showing you that they know the commands taught to them, it is now time to bring them to other places and distractions. Dogs need to mind you where ever they are what ever the situation. If you only work a dog in your back yard, it may not perform as well at the park. Start with light distractions like noise, traffic, and even rain or snow, then increasing the distractions to crowds, wooded areas, other dog's etc.
Improvising the training sessions, keeping them short, interesting, different, and upbeat will polish the dog and keep his attention.
Good training includes leash technique, timing, voice intonation, a mix of praise and discipline, and an understanding of the particular dog that is being trained. They are all different, whether they are the same breed, same sex, or even from the same litter.
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
|
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
CHOOSING THE RIGHT DOG: |
| |
|
|
| |
|
So many breeds! So many rescues! So many lifestyles! How does one choose the right dog?
Well, let's start by eliminating some reasons not to choose a particular breed, or dog.
The reason not to get a dog:
Can't commit to the responsibilities. Walking on a leash, rules to live by, schedules, quality time together for exercise, grooming and training. Some tiny dog owners seem to be more compromising than owners of larger dogs are. For some reason, tiny dog owners seem to feel neither exercise nor mental stimulation is necessary. They never go outside. They aren't walked and they're carried around like those Television Idiots do. They hardly get to be dogs.
The biggest reason NOT to choose a particular breed:
MACHISMO!! Some men are to blame here. They choose the Bully's, Mastiffs, Dobie's, Rotti's etc. All great breeds. Bought for all the wrong reasons. These breeds need to be treated like any other breed. Respect, love, praise, discipline, but they are bought for intimidation, and used incorrectly for protection. Just because a breed looks like it will make good protection dog, doesn't always mean the particular dog you bought is suited for protection. Consider all the police K-9 dogs that don't have what it takes, and these dogs come mostly from good breeding programs.
OK enough negativity. Lets talk about your choices.
Age: Pup or adult? Puppies are great, they are cute and you get to bring them up your way. But, are you going to commit to the seemingly never ending attention and structure-building exercises it will take to raise your pup to adult hood? Adults can be a little easier; less demanding and best of all.. Teething is over! Older people that are looking for a mellow companion may find a nice match with a mature dog that needs a home. The kennels have these dogs too.
Size:
Number one rule, you need to be able to physically handle your dog at all times, in any situation! Less than 1-% of dogs in this country are trained! If you can't handle your dog in an unexpected situation due to its size and strength you are putting yourself in grave danger. Then of course the dog doesn't get walked any more. Choose a dog that can be handled by you and your family.
Coat: Nothing worse than a full coat dog that isn't groomed regularly or a poodle with eye stains due to neglect. If you're looking for a lower maintenance dog, consider a short coat breed or mix.
Sex: Male or female? Males are generally larger, maybe more independent. Un-neutered males can drift. They can mark your home if not trained early. Un-spayed females come into season twice a year. Get you sponge mop ready! I don't have a great preference.
Rescues: There is nothing nicer than bringing a dog into your home that has never known one, or possibly from an abusive situation. When rescuing a dog, please do all your homework. Lots of these dogs come with baggage. Insist on walking the dog while at the kennel. You can ask all the questions you want, and hopefully you will get answers from the shelter workers. My experience working with rescued dogs is that the truth is either not known or is not told to you. These dogs need structure. It makes no sense to spoil them because of there past. You still need to establish the rules, set the schedules and train the dog. Very shy or submissive dogs need an experienced owner, and a quiet home to rehabilitate, or at least make comfortable if at all possible.
Specific breeds:
This includes temperament. (The dogs outlook on life). Aloof, easygoing, docile, tough, aggressive etc. If you're not an outside person, or don't have access to land for exercising a dog, don't buy a dog that requires lots of "run time". Some working breeds, herding breeds, and terriers come to mind. These dogs have to get rid of their energy; otherwise it turns into a bored and destructive dog inside the house. The Jack Russell Terrier always comes to my mind first. What a great breed! Full of energy and spirit. Great heart. Hell of a dog to control if you don't have the matching energy or time. These dogs need jobs! Carrying, searching, chasing (fetch).
Terrier comes from the word TERRA. Not TERROR. We make dogs into terrors; meanwhile they have the heart of a lion! They are earth dogs, ground dogs, they like to chase small animals, and their noses are on the ground all the time. Why not harness that into a game of "hide and seek". You can do this with the working dogs as well. After all, hide and seek is "search and rescue" to a small extent! Retrievers like to . well, figure that one out! We buy Golden's because of the "A's " on their overall report card as a great dog, but we forget that golden retrievers are RETRIEVERS!!!!!!!!!! They like swimming, fetching and finding. So happens they are generally great family dogs as well.
Suppressing what comes naturally to a specific breed of dog only turns into stress and frustration for the dog. This inevitably surfaces as destruction or attention getting behaviors like excessive barking, bolting, peeing or pooping on the floor right in front of you!
Bottom line when choosing a dog, analyze your own lifestyle, gather the family around the dinner table over a nice pizza, and get some input from all family members. Read as much as possible when you narrow down your choice. Newsgroups and forums are great places to ask questions. Explain the responsibilities to everyone. I love it when someone calls me to tell me they got a dog for their 5-year-old daughter! Always be prepared to do the job yourself. It will be the dog you are punishing, not your kids!
The right dog will make a great addition to your family!
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
TRAINING EXPECTATIONS |
| |
|
|
| |
|
The results you can expect after having your dog trained shouldn't be any different than training yourself for competition, keeping in shape, or preparing for a job assignment. It all takes practice! Sure, I can train your dog to understand certain behaviors like sit, down, come etc. but does than mean your dog can be off leash and come when called, or stay for extended periods after one 45 minute session? Well, the answer is most likely no.
Some expectations I hear can be from - "I want my dog to stay when I open the door" to "I want my dog to come when I call" to "I don't want my dog to jump on my guests." Perfectly common and certainly achievable behaviors when practiced.
Dog-training goals need to be accomplished in steps. Perfecting step one before going to step two. For example, if your dog won't come on the long leash, he won't come off the leash! So, we perfect the recall on the leash first, then we progress to dropping the leash, adding distance, maybe a lighter line. Then maybe some random recalls while on the long leash and so on. Staying at the door starts with staying for you in general, then progressing to more distracting situations.
How does the dog owner accomplish his goals? The same way goals are met for any aspect of goal achieving. Practice, repetition, consistency, Realistic goal setting.
Training should include every day situations as well as "formal" practice sessions. Inside sessions as well as outside. After all, training your dog isn't about showing it off to family and friends. It's about getting results when you really need them!
Your dog needs to work for you and your family, not just the trainer. There's only one way that's going to happen -
practice, practice, practice!
back to 'List of Articles' |
| |
|
................................................................................................................................................................... |
| |
|
▲back to top of page |
|
|
| |
|